Amsterdam
9/1/2011 2:51pm
On a train now to Paris from what is easily the most
refreshingly strange city I've ever been to. It's a city where the cops might
bust an establishment for letting its patrons smoke tobacco inside. Couldn't
smell it? Oh, simple explanation. It was masked by the marijuana they mixed in
with it. The buildings there look like they were built by Esher and Dahali
Construction. Apparently building a city on a swamp has some disadvantages.
Each house rest on wooden piles driven into the mud. If during that process an
air pocket develops, the pile rots. Pile rots, pile shrinks, house sags, then
BOOM your windows are crooked. That's been going on for a few hundred years so
all the houses tend to lean on each other with crooked exterior molding and
windows. Oh, and the houses lean toward the streets too. That's apparently a
trick used to maximize the floor space of the incredibly narrow homes by, in
turn narrowing the staircases which are actually more like well built ladders.
Doing this allowed the Dutch East India Trading Company working stiff a proper
arrangement to load cargo from the harbor into their attics via a hook and
pulley, cutting out the narrow and strangely built interior passages altogether.
It would be far too many years before they realized they could just build the
house vertically and extend the hook outward.
And the
citizenry of Amsterdam, for all its liberal policies, is fairly conservative
about its architecture. Change is bad and they have codified that. In the
1960's, the city took to rebuilding the devastated Jewish district. Trying to
seem hip, the same way an old man tries to seem hip by humming along to a Jay-Z
beat, they turned responsibility over to local architecture students who
apparently had only three loves: architectural design, cubism and LySergic acid Diethylamide.
What resulted didn't exactly mesh with its surrounds or its benefactors. People
got mad, funny sounding Dutch voices were raised and they passed a law. Now the
street side of every house in Amsterdam must remain architecturally as is, save
for necessary repairs.
Ok, I know
you are reading this because you are enthralled by sinful topics like Dutch
Architecture however I must move on to more mundane topics like legalized
prostitution and drug dealing.
Amount of
time I was in Amsterdam before I saw people smoking marajuana: 3 hours. Amount
of time before I saw a prostitute: 6 hours. Amount of time before I had a
prostitute ask me to “come talk to her”: also 6 hours. Amount of time before I
saw an attractive prostitute: 8 hours. Number of times I had to put my head
down and act like I was some sort of seminar student: a lot.
It's a strange feeling walking
through the Red Light district. For one, all the girls are simply standing in a window with a red light on. If it sounds like some strange Barby doll
shopping experience then you are following me pretty well. It is advertising
boiled down to it most, eh hum, bare components. Really the most disappointing
aspects were you couldn't take pictures and there were no pimps. Apparently
they ran all the pimps out of town in 2000 when they fully legalized the world’s
oldest profession. At least that's what they say. Or maybe they all just got
rid of the pimp hats. You know, disguised themselves. As far as pictures, I'd
love to show you some of the girls in the windows just so you can get a sense
of the strange normal that they have here. Alas that can't happen. I was warned
by everyone I talked to that taking pictures of girls in windows would be met
with a fate so disgusting I don't feel like typing it here. If you'd like to
know you can message me but its really quite revolting.
Another
thing, not revolting but mildly frustrating, was trying to get directions in
this town. Everyone here speaks English very well. That is to say they know the
language very well. They SPEAK our language quite poorly on account of the most
ridiculous sounding accent in the western world. A typical conversation started
like this, on account of I speak almost no Dutch,
“Hello, sprechts du English (do you speak English)”
“Osh, Yesh Ish speaksh Engshlichsh.”
And they don't just speak our language like that, they speak
their own language in a similarly maddening way. Example: the place I was
staying was on Spiur Strasse. Don't ask me what that means. In any case, Spriur
in Dutch is pronounces Sproo. So I would ask someone if they knew where Sproo
Strasse was because you inevitably get lost in this maze of a city. They would
respond, “Sproo Strasse? Oh you mean Sproo Strasse! Yesh, Thatsh eashy....” Ok,
maybe that isn't a perfect Dutch accent, but what they said sounded similarly
ridiculous.
And just so
we're clear, the most risque things my money went to was a tour of the Red
Light district where I learned most of the things I told you here and a pub
crawl. Sorry to disappoint. By the way, just looked out the window at the French country
side. I am the luckiest man alive. Till later friends.
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